To keep a fire in a small tipi you need to use good dry clean firewood, split and bright burning. Adding small pieces regularly to maintain a flame and reduce the smouldering smoke.

Its best to orientate the tipis smoke flap opening to face away from prevailing seasonal winds. As smoke will not clear from the tipi in winds that are to front on.

Having said that, when pitched correctly, with main structural poles fixed to the ground the tipi will withstand very strong wind gusts, even 50 to 70 km. There is more danger of wind borne debris striking the tipi and tearing the canvas.

It can be wise to remove the tipi skin before major forecast weather events. The poles could be left in place, or also laid somewhere safe.

Bamboo poles are adequate for tipis though life span can be as short as 1 – 3 yrs, though I have seen bamboo poles last for five plus years in some tipis.

The white cypress poles are a more long term trouble free option. Being naturally resistant to borers, white ants and fungal rot, will give an indefinite life span if cared for , keeping dry and recoating if needed.

Cotton material, may have a more natural feel, though doesn’t withstand the elements , when exposed for prolonged periods of time, especially to moisture. Any mildew outbreaks will greatly reduce the lifespan of a 100% cotton tipi.

The poly cotton tipis , repel moisture and are more mildew resistant, in as much as the environmental conditions allow.

Will also cope with cleaning and reproofing more than the full cotton.

In the last few years I have also been using 100%solution dyed polymer backed Acrylic fabric that is 100% rot proof, waterproof and resistance to mould is superior to the other canvas’s. It is made for covers in the marine industry, increased ease of cleaning, requiring only the hosing off of dust, pollen and the occasional bird poop.

( standard for any canvas )

Any art work can be applied using a water based, outdoor Acrylic house or roof paint.  Dulux Weathershield is a good flexible choice, or Taubmans also have a similar, cheaper product. Artwork paints are also fine, if smaller quantities are needed. Again look for water based acrylic outdoor poster paint or similar.

For a dry tipi, in heavy rain, the tipi pole cone cap can sit on top of the shortened poles and skin

eliminates all water entry that would otherwise track down the poles into the tipi space. This will eliminate 95% of water problems, the other 5% will enter through smoke flap opening when flaps are orientated in such a way that water can drain down inside flap and drip below where they meet above the lace pin panel. An internal rainsheet can aid in catching this water.

If you would rather do away with the rain cap come, and enjoy long crows nest poles extending towards the heavens, you will have to allow for water tracking down the poles when raining. Most of this water will run down to the base of the pole, though random drips may occur whilst the water makes its way down the poles. There are ways to encourage the water to leave the pole up high, above the rainsheet, so that the drips are directed on to the rainsheet, and out the front of the tipi.

Some attention may be needed to maintain this redirection of water flow.

The liner is basically an internal Curtain they redirects air flow coming in under the hem of the tipi , up the side of the tipi, creating a vertical air movement, which encourages smoke removal from the tipi. With out s liner, the wind/breeze, can create a horizontal air flow, which can interfere with the natural vortex created by the conical shape of the tipi, aiding in the ability of smoke to leave the tipi. It also makes for a more cosy and intimate internal feel inside the tipi.

The liner can also impede cleaning behind it, and possible build up of dust, cobwebs, or even mouse droppings may occur without semi regular inspection.

In still, humid conditions, the canvas may hold moisture in the gap between liner and tipi skin, so some application of fungal control, such as spaghnum moss solution, or lifting of liner and or tipi hem to encourage airflow may be necessary from time to time.

Being in contact with the ground can really add a feeling of connection to the mother, though dampness will not be great. A pad prepared, to ensure 360 deg drainage around the diameter of the tipi away from the edge is necessary to avoid water running back inside the tipi.

Situating the tipi on a raised sloping pad will help. You may want to add a washed pebble substrate, or similar to ensure no moisture wicking from the earth creating mould under your mats and flooring covers. I have seen very nice, warm , cow dung, straw and earth floors in tipis, to great effect.

Windows are great for allowing light and ventilation into the tipi, without having to untie and lift the edge of the tipi. Its possible to create an awning over the windows to allow them to be open when raining. Awning over the door can also be practical, in keeping the entry dry.

Wether these additions are aesthetic or not is an subjective matter, and up to the individual. Lift up side awnings can also be a quick way to increase ventilation in hot weather. Any additions such as awnings, can impede the moving of the smoke flap poles, so can sometimes get in the way.

It’s recommended to periodically hose off the tipi and brush with a soft broom or brush as necessary, i.e. in case of bat or bird droppings.

Or to remove dust or pollens that may settle on the surface. Generally this can be done without taking the tipi down.

There are also good products available on line and from stores such as Bunnings or cleaning product suppliers.

For external use, 30 seconds away, is a non bleach mould remover that can be sprayed in solution over the tipi on areas where you may see the beginnings of spot mould appearing.

It will arrest the growth and break down the mould , usual weather action such as sun rain and air flow will assist this product in removing the mould spores.

Mould control is also a Bunnings product that can be sprayed on as a residual deterrent to mould growth during the wet months. Both easily applied by garden sprayer bottles which are also available from stores such a as I mentioned already. A 7 ltr hand pump action style is suitable.

Internally I would suggest using more natural products such as vinegar, clove oil, and one really good product is sphagnum moss , available on line, from Tri-Nature which is a fully natural anti-microbial disinfectant and mildew killer. These products can be used to wipe down poles, spray and wipe on surfaces, and as general air fresheners.

A little regular attention will stop mould getting started and spreading.

Action should always be taken at the first signs of mould spores starting and are easily removed in initial stages.

It is always possible to kill mould if you use these products.

So at worst, you may end up with some stains over the years, but your tipi will remain strong.

Using the right quality wood, dry and bright burning, building your fire so it has good air available to the burning timber,

And ensuring your smoke flaps are in the optimum position will all assist in keeping the smoke levels down.

The tipi will draw well, the large rear or side window will also be of help, to let smoke out if it gets smokey, but generally the tipi will be comfortable when you have a fire if you use the right wood. Obviously avoid wet, or green timbers and keep plenty of split dry timber to add to the fire to avoid slumbering, slow burning of larger logs. A bright fire has less smoke and more updraught, which will assist in the draught process to take the smoke upwards and out the top.